Uptone journal

Cool Summer makeup and hair colors: pure cool at medium depth

Cool Summer is the temperature-led summer in the twelve season system: cool first, clear second, medium depth third, and every mistake this season makes is a shade with warmth, peach or gold hiding in it.

8 min read
Before and after of the same woman: bare-faced, then wearing a clear, medium-depth raspberry lip, rose blush and ash blonde hair

Same face, Cool Summer clarity: the lip is a clear, medium-depth raspberry, the blush is rose, and nothing about it is warm.

Direct answer

What is Cool Summer makeup? Cool Summer makeup is purely cool and softly clear: mauve, rose and a clear, medium-depth raspberry on the lips; soft pink and rose blush; silver, dusky blue, icy pink and gray on the eyes, with nothing warm, golden or peachy anywhere in the bag. Cool Summer (also called True Summer) is the summer season run by temperature above all else: cool first, clearer than Soft Summer, softer than any winter, at a medium depth.

How is Cool Summer different from the other summers?

The three summers share coolness and divide on one axis each. Light Summer is run by lightness: pale first, cool second. Soft Summer is run by softness: the cool family with gray stirred into every shade. Cool Summer is run by temperature: the purest version of the family, clear cool at medium depth.

That middle position is why Cool Summer gets mistyped in both directions. Go paler and you are dressing it as Light Summer; stir gray in and you are dressing it as Soft Summer. Cool Summer keeps genuinely medium shades, denim, plum, navy, a clear, medium-depth raspberry, natural against the face.

  • What runs the palette: lightness for Light Summer, temperature for Cool Summer, softness for Soft Summer.
  • Depth: light for Light Summer, medium for Cool Summer, light to medium for Soft Summer.
  • Clarity: Light Summer is pale and fairly clear; Cool Summer is clear, with the lightest gray veil; Soft Summer is grayed and dusty throughout.
  • Signature lip: powder pink for Light Summer, a clear, medium-depth raspberry for Cool Summer, dusty rose for Soft Summer.
  • Fails fastest in: anything dark or strong for Light Summer, anything warm or golden for Cool Summer, anything clear or bright for Soft Summer.

Source: AvaRobe, Cool Summer (True Summer) guide

Which makeup colors suit a Cool Summer?

Think of the cool palette at natural strength: every shade blue or pink based, clear enough to read as color, soft enough never to shout.

Foundation follows the same rule: cool undertoned formulas, from the neutral beige or cool porcelain end of the range. Warm and yellow based foundations are the usual reason this season's makeup looks right in the shop, sallow at home.

The nude question deserves its own paragraph: it is where this season gets sold the wrong tube most often. Most nude lipsticks are built on peach and warm beige, and on cool skin that base turns to orange mud within the hour. The Cool Summer nude is a cool pink-beige or a mauve, a shade that looks almost gray pink in the tube and like your own lips, cooled, on the face. If a nude swatch reads apricot on your wrist, it is not your nude.

  • Clear, medium-depth raspberry: lips. The signature strong lip: berry depth with the clarity kept in.
  • Mauve: lips. The everyday lip: a step deeper than the lip's own color.
  • Cool pink-beige: lips. This season's nude: beige with the peach taken out.
  • Rose: lips, blush. The balanced middle: blue underneath, never coral.
  • Soft plum: lips, evening. The bold lip deepened with blue, not brown.
  • Blush pink: lips. The low makeup day neutral; sheer berry over balm works too.
  • Deep pink: blush. The strongest blush this season needs; soft pink is its everyday wash.
  • Silver: eyes, jewelry metal. The metallic, worn satin; gold warms the face.
  • Dusky blue: eyes. Blue softened toward gray; the everyday eye color.
  • Icy pink: eyes. Pink with the warmth removed; a wash, not a glitter.
  • Navy: eyes, liner. Defines at this season's contrast; kinder than black.
  • Plum: eyes. The accent: purple kept cool and medium.

Source: Radiantly Dressed, Cool/True Summer palette guide

Which shades fail on a Cool Summer: wrong vs right?

Put a peach nude and a cool pink-beige on your own photo and watch which one your face agrees with.

  • Peach nude lipstick vs cool pink-beige: the peach base is this complexion's fastest failure, reading as an orange film rather than a lip color. Cool pink-beige keeps the beige and removes the warmth.
  • Coral or warm red lipstick vs a clear, medium-depth raspberry: coral's orange base fights cool skin at close range and wins. The clear, medium-depth raspberry gives the same strength with blue underneath instead of orange.
  • Golden bronzer and warm brown eyeshadow vs silver and dusky blue: warmth on this face reads as dirt or tiredness, never as glow. Cool metal and grayed blue shape without the mud.
  • Peach blush vs rose blush: peach sits on cool skin as a visible warm patch. Rose reads as blood under the skin, which is what blush imitates.
  • Warm taupe and bronze eyeshadow vs gray and plum: the bronze family is autumn's, and it yellows this eye area. Gray builds the shape, plum adds the color.

What hair colors suit a Cool Summer?

Keep it cool, and keep it ash. The working colors are ash blondes and ash browns, plus cool brunettes for natural depth, all with the red and gold taken out.

Avoid golden, honey and brassy anything. The quiet trap is the fade: ash tones drift toward brass between visits, and a golden gloss at the basin undoes a correct color at once.

Test ash blonde and light ash brown on your photo before anyone reaches for a golden gloss.

  • Ash blonde: the core light color, blonde with a smoky reflect; soft silver blonde and pale platinum highlights add dimension.
  • Light to medium ash brown: the anchor shade, brown with the red removed; it holds this season's medium depth.
  • Cool beige balayage: lightness through the ends, balanced between ash and neutral, that never turns golden.
  • Muted espresso: the deepest wearable brunette, cool and softened; never jet black, never red based.
  • Slate brown and soft mink brown: grayed browns for natural brunettes who want the warmth gone without going blonde.

Source: color-analysis.app, Cool Summer palette and styling guide

Source: myecocloset, True Summer hair colors

How do I know if I am a Cool Summer?

Your features carry ash or gray somewhere: hair with a smoky cast, eyes gray blue, gray green or soft brown, skin cool with a pink or blue undertone. Your depth is medium, and your contrast is low to medium. Silver, platinum and white gold sit quiet on you while yellow gold looks borrowed, though the metal test cannot separate the three summers, since all of them take silver.

Kate Middleton is the celebrity example two independent sources agree on for this season, used here as illustration, not verdict. If black and optic white clear your face rather than draining it, you are on the winter side, and that test is in our Cool Winter guide. For the whole map first, the twelve seasons are laid out in our hub.

Am I Cool Summer or Soft Summer?

This boundary decides most medium cool colorings, because the two seasons share temperature and differ only in clarity. Cool Summer's shades are clear: the cool family at natural strength, with at most a breath of gray over them. Soft Summer's shades are grayed all the way through, dusty and muted.

Test it with one shade family, at this season's own depth. Take a clear cool rose or a soft berry lip, and a dusty, grayed rose. If the clear shade freshens you and the dusty one grays your face, you are Cool Summer. If the clear shade looks too separate while the dusty rose settles your skin, you are Soft Summer, and that palette is broken down in our Soft Summer guide.

The pair runs one depth step deeper than the powder pink test in our Light Summer guide, on purpose: at medium depth both shades carry real color and only one carries the gray.

Source: We Heart This, Soft Summer color palette comparison

Am I Cool Summer or Light Summer?

Same family, different entry requirement. Light Summer is lightness-led: the coloring is light, and its palette stays pale because depth outweighs it. Cool Summer is temperature-led at medium depth, and it keeps medium shades natural.

Test it with depth at full strength. Hold denim blue, a deep, clear raspberry and plum near your face. If they sit naturally, your depth is real, and it is Cool Summer depth. If those shades wear you, arriving before your face does, while pale powder shades clear your skin, that is Light Summer, and its palette is in our Light Summer guide.

The reverse mistake is just as common: a Cool Summer in Light Summer's pastels looks washed out and chalky, because the color is wrong in weight, not temperature.

What should I ask my colorist for?

Cool hair is easy to lose in a salon, because golden glosses are the default step and ash pigment fades first. Brief against both, and bring a photo of the target shade on your own face. Save the shade name, level and toner as a Salon Card. Testing shades on your photo first uses credits, so run the finalists, not the whole palette.

  • Keep it cool and keep it ash: ash or violet reflects only, and no golden gloss at the end. Say the gloss part out loud; it is where cool colors get quietly warmed.
  • A toner with a name: ash, icy, cool beige, slate. Blonde or brown alone in a busy salon can come back honey or chestnut.
  • Your level stated and agreed before anything is mixed; most Cool Summer regrets are depth accidents, too dark into winter contrast or lifted pale into Light Summer.
  • The fade plan: ash leaves first and brass shows through, so ask which violet neutralising shampoo or gloss keeps the reflect cool.

Worth knowing

Cool does not mean colorless

Cool Summer is a full palette, not a gray one. A clear, medium-depth raspberry, plum, navy, denim and jade are real colors with real presence, simply mixed with blue instead of sun. A Cool Summer who paints only in gray has mistaken coolness for absence.

See it on yourself

Take the theory out of it.

The article's central claim is that temperature, not lightness or softness, runs this season, and that only side by side shade tests separate it from Light Summer and Soft Summer. Both are testable in one step: the reader's own photo run through the season test, instead of another round of guessing at a makeup counter.

Find your season from your photo

Use your own photo. Keep what feels like you.

Questions people ask

What is Cool Summer makeup?

Cool Summer makeup is purely cool and softly clear: mauve, rose and a clear, medium-depth raspberry, soft pink and rose blush, and silver, dusky blue and gray eyes. Nothing warm, golden or peachy belongs in the bag.

Is Cool Summer the same as True Summer?

Yes. Cool Summer and True Summer are two names for one season, the temperature-led summer, in the same way Cool Winter is also called True Winter. Guides that treat them as sister seasons describe the same palette twice.

What lipstick suits a Cool Summer?

Mauve for every day, rose and a clear, medium-depth raspberry for strength, and soft plum for evening. The nude is a cool pink-beige or mauve, never a peach nude, because most nudes are built on warm beige and turn to orange mud.

What is the difference between Cool Summer and Soft Summer?

Both are cool and medium soft; Cool Summer is clearer, its shades at natural strength with at most a breath of gray, while Soft Summer is grayed and dusty throughout. Test a clear cool rose against a dusty, grayed rose at your face: whichever one clears your skin names your season.

Can a Cool Summer wear black?

Black is usually harsher than this coloring wants, because its contrast belongs to the winters; charcoal, soft navy and gray give definition at the season's own weight. If black and optic white genuinely clear your face instead of draining it, test yourself against Cool Winter.